Day 3 – Shippensburg to Columbia
Day Three holds to the pattern of decreasing mileage and climbing, but it features a real wake up to get the day started. Within a mile of the hotel you start climbing South Mountain through the Michaux State Forest. Eight miles of climbing delivers you to Big Flat, the highest elevation on this randonnee. The great news is that the slope on this route over South Mountain is much more “West Coast” than “East Coast,” with a steady grade and an average grade of about 3.4%. The other great news is you will have completed almost 20 percent of the day’s climbing less than 10 miles from the hotel.
Riders from the Blue Ridge to Bay 1200k will remember the southeasterly side of South Mountain, this time on the descent. Slopes on our descent are much more severe than on the side you just climbed, but not so steep as to make descending a challenge. The fast zip carries you to the small town of Arendtsville (mile 473) and on to Gettysburg (mile 479).
We approach the historical battlefield from the northwest, much as the leading edge of Confederate soldiers did when they arrived in town for the first day of the famous battle. We have about two miles of riding in the National Battlefield before the town appears, and then we ride about 7 miles through the main battlefield. First we ride Confederate Avenue and see the big field from the perspective of Southern soldiers, and then we turn and ride the Union line. This course affords clear views of the Devil’s Den, Little Roundtop, and the High Water Mark of the Confederate’s furthest advance. This trek exposes you to possibly more than 100 statues and monuments, including the most dramatic ones on the National Battlefield.
The exit from the battlefield brings you to services in Gettysburg, and after the climb over Big Flat you’ll probably be ready for second breakfast. The usual fare is available in town, but a favorite stop is Ragged Edge Coffee for excellent baked goods (a few feet off route, mile 489). Many a tale has been spun by local randonneurs about late night stops at one of the worst 7-Elevens anywhere (mile 489), which is something of a tradition. The route out of town traverses another mile of the National Battlefield.
The next 40 miles are pretty easy, with another supply possibility in East Berlin (mile 506), where Hog Wild BBQ and Rocco’s Pizza serve excellent rando lunch. This stretch also takes you through the small city of York (mile 518), where we will use the Central Market to feed you at the end of the day.
The terrain picks up some roll east of York, on the way to the mighty Susquehanna River, headwaters of the Chesapeake Bay. On the way to the Veteran’s Memorial Bridge, convenience stores are available in Wrightsville (mile 533). A few miles after the bridge you arrive at Marietta (mile 538), which has several good choices for a sit down lunch. Marietta is an old river town, which thrived on lumber transportation, and now it delivers you to the Northwest River Trail, for 8 miles of paved riding off the streets, through the floodplain and with one impressive clear view of the Susquehanna.
The exit from the NRT delivers you to the farmlands and villages of Lancaster County, with interactions with Plain People more likely later in the day. The terrain for the remainder of the day is truly mixed, mostly flat with the occasional notable climb thrown in. This leg includes more hiker biker trails on the Conewago Recreational Trail, Lebanon Valley Rail Trail, and Warwick to Ephrata Rail Trail. There are limited services in charming Manheim (mile 572) and again in Akron (mile 585), where you control.
There are more Plain People south of Akron, on a route that runs from Intercourse (mile 596) straight to Paradise (mile 599). The route turns east toward our 1000k mark, passing through lovely Strasburg (mile 603) along the way. Our overnight and the end of the 1000k is in Columbia (mile 623).
Dinner in Mountville comes from vendors in the Central Market in York. Mezzogiorno brings us meat or vegetable lasagna, antipasti, and salad, along with homemade bread. Desert is shoofly pie from Gracie’s Amazing, and of course there are soft drinks, wine, and beer. Breakfast in Mountville includes shoofly pie if there is any left (great rando breakfast), with more features from Gracie’s Amazing: sausage pies, oatmeal pies, fresh bread, and juice and coffee. You won’t want to leave, but the finish beckons without a great deal of struggle left.
Riders Nearing the End of Day!